Category: Handouts

Guidelines for Turtle/Tortoise Hibernation

Commonly kept species that will try to hibernate: Desert tortoises (Gopherus); Russian tortoise (T. horsfieldii); Box turtles; Wood turtles (Clemmys insculpta); Spotted turtles (Clemmys guttata); Snapping turtles (illegal/protected in several states); and Red-eared sliders (Trachemys scripta elegans).

Hibernation protects cold-blooded creatures (and some warm-blooded) in cold weather or when food and water are scarce.

Dormancy also affects the reproductive cycles of chelonian species. A “cooling period” stimulates breeding activity when temperatures normalize. On this info sheet turtles and tortoises are divided into only two categories: non-tropical (species that hibernate), and tropical (do not hibernate).

Turtles and tortoises can hibernate up to a full eight months of the year, depending upon latitudinal location. The rule-of-thumb to guide you on your research should be: The farther from the equator the species occurs naturally, the more likely it is to hibernate; the closer to the equator, the less likely.

If you have recently acquired an animal, have one that is ill or recovering, or a hatchling that is under three years old, do not hibernate them; this group is highly vulnerable to dying if allowed to hibernate.

Turtles and tortoises usually instinctively stop eating on their own before hibernation, but it’s best to ensure that they do through regulation of food availability. Omnivorous species must be kept from feeding at least two weeks prior to hibernation (to avoid food fermentation in the stomach and risk of death). Fruit is especially dangerous.

Hibernating Terrestrials And Semi-Aquatics (Inside And Outside)

The two biggest hazards are freezing and drowning for hibernation outdoors, so it is best to provide containers in which the pet can spend the winters inside. A box-within-a-box that filled with wadded or shredded newspaper provides insulation and darkness. This box can be placed in a secluded room, closet, a shed or a garage. A thermometer needs to be kept on the box. This must be checked frequently, especially if there are external weather changes.

Hibernating species can generally tolerate a temperature between 39°F and 50°F (3.8°C and 10°C). Above 50°F may precipitate torpor, not a true hibernation, and your pet may use up precious fat reserves due to a raised metabolism. If that happens you’ll have to take the turtle or tortoise out of its hibernation box and allow it to gradually come increase to a warmer temperature. The animal must then be fed and maintained at non-hibernation temps. This scenario is likely if your tortoise is active in its hibernation box or if you find urination/waste. Remove your pet, hydrate it and move the box to a cooler, protected spot. Provide fresh, dry substrate and monitor to be sure hibernation is taking place.

It’s critical to weigh your pet prior to hibernation and chart the weight throughout the hibernation period. Buy a digital gram scale for weighing the smaller species. Ask your vet or herpetologist what amount of loss is considered acceptable based on your pets size. In general a tortoise or turtle should lose only 1% of its body weight per month during hibernation. Chart it the weight on a piece of paper you keep taped near to the hibernaculum/container and keep it as a guide for the following year’s hibernation. If you are unsure about the amount of weight loss, ask your vet.

Captive turtles/tortoises that are being hibernated in unnatural conditions risk dehydration due to low humidity. Nonetheless, they mustn’t be allowed to become wet and chilled. Check the skin condition regularly. If the skin is drier than normal (usual) or the animal has lost too much body mass during that period, wake it slowly and soak it in shallow (below the bridge) room-temperature water for two hours to regain its lost fluid. Dry it thoroughly (but do not warm it!) and return it to its box. Younger tortoises and turtles (hatchlings and juveniles) should have this done every three weeks regardless.

Turtles and tortoises store more body water in the fall than the summer, so hydration is critical to a successful outcome. If your hibernating turtle or tortoise voids its water stores (you find the bedding/substrate is wet), you MUST bring it out for rehydration.

If your animal is to be hibernated outdoors, make sure it has access to drinking water at all times, but don’t let it hibernate in a location where rain can drown it or get it wet enough to cause chilling. Check the hibernation spot frequently. If you see a turtle or tortoise out trying to bask on a rainy or cloudy day, it may be a sign that something’s wrong with the hibernation process. Bring the animal indoors and examine it to see if hibernation should be allowed to continue. Consult with your vet if you are unsure. Better safe than sorry!

Attention to detail makes the difference between a successful hibernation and potentially death. You will need several tools to help with your task: a gram scale, thermometer, humidity gauge, and resources such as the local tortoise club, and an exotics veterinarian.

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Tegu Care/Info Sheet

Class: Reptilia
Order: Squamata
Family: Tejidae
Genus: Tupinambis
Species: teguixin and rufescens

Common name of Tupinambis teguixin: Black and White Tegu
Common name of Tupinambis rufescens: Red Tegu

Distribution (Argentina): Northern provinces of Argentina (Central & South America)

Identification/History:

Its head is covered with large regular plates, an its sturdy body is supported by powerful legs. The rounded tail is considerably longer than the rest of the body and the latter half is banded. Its dorsal scales are granular, those ventrally are larger and rectangular. Typical specimens are dark brown or black with groups of small white or yellowish spots arranged in crossbands. The Red Tegu is smaller, these specimens are red with white spots. The tupinambis rufescens has more ventral scales.
The tegues are well known as the bigger lizards in Argentina and one of the largest in the world. Most tegues can grow up to 1,30 meters. Some scientists have found specimens of 1,50 meters long. (51 – 59 in)
They live in subtropical regions, building caves in high places, like hills, but always near rivers or lakes. Here in Argentina they are mainly found in the provinces of Misiones, Corrientes, Chaco, Entre Ríos, Santa Fé, Córdoba, La Pampa and Buenos Aires. Unluckily it is been hunt to obtain meat and leather. This is why this specimen is in extinction.

Nutrition:

Their nutrition includes a wide variety of plant material, insects and other prey (snails, small mammals, small birds, bird eggs, mollusks, fish, and even amphibians), and changes as they grow.  Smaller tegues eat a variety of insects, including; spiders, snails, earthworms. Later they start eating fruits, and as they grow bigger they eat small vertebrates, like frogs, snakes, etc. They also eat many types eggs. Their teeth change through their life.  Studies have documented that 66.8 % of the stomach contents consisted of vegetable matter; 12.9 % were invertebrates; and 20.3 % were vertebrates.  When they are young the have front teeth which help them to eat insects. As adults their teeth are bigger, and muscles in the jaw are more well developed, especially in males.

Another important characteristic of tegues is their method of hunting bigger prey species.  The prey is typically trapped in their mouth and pounded on the ground with swift head movements in order to tear it for easy swallowing.  Despite these adaptations, be careful not to overfeed animal prey items, as ½- 2/3 of the diet should be vegetatian.

Patterns:

They usually begin their daily activity in the afternoon. Tegues become more sedentary in the colder months. In Argentina this occurs from March to August, but it always depends on environmental changes. They remain in underground caves that they build or steal from other animals. After October the reproduction period begins, and goes through the end of November.

Reproduction:

When the male finds comes across an appropriate female, he moves his neck and makes a snorting sound. Then he grasps her neck with his mouth and her body with his rear legs.  After copulation, the female builds a cave to egg lay. The eggs are white and oval (approximate 48mm height ). Hatchling Tegues are 7 to 11 cm long and they are bright green, with black spots, (a good camoflauge).

Enemies:

Predators of the immature tegues include birds of prey, pumas, and snakes. Tegues will drop their tail in an attempt to confuse predatory.  Usually when it regrows it is irregular and shorter. The tail is also used for defense as a whip.

Placement:

Unlike common iguanas, Tegues need more space for walking and moving over the ground, so a long versus a tall cage is preferred. They do like to climb but they are not especially agile. The cages should be as large a possible, at least twice the length of the lizard (including tail).  Cages should be easy to clean/disinfect.  You should provide them with plenty of water with easy access.
Remember that in wild they build their refuge near rivers and streams.

Handling

Tegues are known to be very aggressive lizards instinctively.  This doesn’t mean they will always act this way, but you should be prepared just in case. If you want to have a friendly human-adapted animal you should acustom your reptile to being with you. Try to be present during eating and gently pet them to desensitize them to human touch (but be careful, and always wash your hands after handling any reptile). Don’t force them to do what they don’t want to do.  Let them move freely on your hands with only slight resistance.  With time and patience you will likely get a satisfactory result.  Warning: be very careful with specimens you are not familiar with.

Lighting

Tegues need sunlight during spring and summer, and become dormant (lethargic) during winter months.  Do not expect them to be as active all year round.  Provide them with heat in the cage by means of basking lamps and under tank pads.  It is ideal to provide a gradient of heat, so that the lizard can select its preferred temperature based on its location in the cage.  Use UVB lamps as a supplement, but not in place of natural, unfiltered sunlight (at least 1/3-1/2 of the year).

Substrate:

I prefer newspaper or paper towels, because it is easy to clean, unlikely to be ingested, and relatively sterile.

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Scientific Name: Geochelone carbonaria

(S. American Red-Footed Tortoise)

MALE SIZE:  up to 13.5 inches (30.4 cm) in length

FEMALE SIZE: 11.25 inches (28.9 cm) in length

APPEARANCE: Several yellow head scales and a horizontal bar behind its eye. The carapace (shell top) is black with a small, distinct yellow area around the areola on each scute (shell scale).  Mature specimens have distinctive incurving of sides, giving them a well-defined “waist.” The plastron (shell bottom) is a relatively bland yellow-brown; there may be some reddish tint and vague dark marks along areas of more recent growth. The plastron is concave in adults. There is quite a bit of variation in coloring, with the legs and head often having patches of orange, yellow or red. The skin is black with bright yellow marks on the head and lower jaw. Many of the scales on the limbs and tail are bright scarlet. Specimens from west of the Andes have a grayish or brownish carapace. Light limb scales are yellowish or slightly orange, but not scarlet. The plastron ranges from predominantly yellow to black.  Note: There is considerable variation in color over the range of the red-foot tortoise, so no one description will accurately describe every specimen.

DISTRIBUTION:  The Red-footed tortoise is found in extreme southern Central America, and central and northern South America including the countries of Panama, Colombia, Venezuela, Guyana, Surinam, French Guyana, Brazil, Bolivia, Paraguay, Argentina, and on several Caribbean islands.

NATURAL HABITAT:  There is some disagreement as to which habitat is the preferred type for red-footed tortoises.  Some feel that red-foots prefer grasslands and dry forest areas, and that rain-forest habitat is most likely marginal. Others suggest that humid forest is the preferred habitat.  Regardless, they are found in drier forest areas, grasslands, and the savanna, or rainforest belts adjoining more open habitats. The red-footed tortoise shares some of its range with the yellow-footed tortoise.  In ranges that are shared in Surinam, the red-footed tortoise has moved out of the forests into grasslands (that are a result of slash and burn agriculture) while the yellow-footed tortoise has remained in the forest.

DIET:  Red-Footed tortoises are primarily herbivorous, consuming a wide variety of grasses, fruits, flowers, and small plants. In the wild they have been reported to consume small amounts of animal material such as carrion (dead animals).  In captivity they should be fed a mixture of high calcium greens, fruits, vegetables, and flowers and a small amount of animal protein. Appropriate high calcium greens include: collard, mustard, and dandelion. Other greens such as endive, watercress, romaine, kale, and escarole should also be mixed in for variety. Spinach should be fed sparingly, as it contains oxalates that bind dietary calcium, making it unavailable. Good fruits and vegetables to offer include: pumpkin, winter squash, grated carrots, crook-neck squash, zucchini, papaya, mango, kiwi, melon, cantaloupe, frozen mixed vegetables (thawed), and prickly pear fruits.  Feed cruciferous vegetables such as broccoli, cauliflower, and brussel sprouts in small amounts, these vegetables contain iodine binders that can cause a dietary deficiency if fed as a large part of the diet.  Edible flowers include: hibiscus, nasturtium, prickly-pear flowers, and dandelions. A small amount of animal protein should be offered every other feeding, high quality canned dog food and pinky mice are acceptable. Hatchling tortoises should be fed everyday, and a pinch of high quality reptile calcium supplement should be sprinkled on their food every other day. After the first year, red-foots can be fed every other day and given calcium twice a week. Two-year old tortoises and adults should be fed twice weekly and given a pinch of calcium at each feeding.

HOUSING:  Even though red-footed tortoise are medium-sized, they still need a large area or enclosure to roam in. Three square yards (2.7 square meters) per tortoise is recommended. Red-foots seem to do best when housed outside in areas where the relative humidity is moderate to high, and nighttime temperatures do not drop below 50 degrees F (10 degrees C). If housed outside, the tortoises must be provided with shaded shelter areas. Red-foots prefer to spend the majority of their time underneath bushes or tall grass (make sure the vegetation is non-toxic). The tortoises must be provided with a shallow pool of clean water they can soak in and drink from, as red footed tortoises are not aquatic, they do not require a deep pool of water for captive purposes. If a breeding group of five animals is housed indoors, their enclosure must be at least 15 square yards (13.5 square meters). Indoor enclosures can be constructed from a variety of materials, but the bottom material should always be water resistant. Concrete floors are not recommended because they tend to be very cold and have been reported to cause prolapse of the penis in male red-foots. The sides of the enclosure should be at least three feet (.9 meters) tall or taller to prevent the tortoises from crawling out. For substrate, a mixture of peat moss and playground sand works well. For juveniles while kept in smaller enclosures, newspaper may be a safer substrate (less likely to consume, and easier to clean).  The tortoises should be provided with hiding and humidity areas. An easy way to accomplish this is to bury a tall plastic trash container horizontally in the substrate so that a tortoise could fit inside. Moisten the substrate inside the hiding area to increase the humidity. The cool end of the enclosure should be 70-75 degrees F (21 to 24 degrees C) and the heated end should be 85-88 degrees F (29 to 31 degrees C). Make sure to provide several heated areas so the tortoises do not have to compete for basking sites. The nighttime temperature can drop to 55-60 degrees F (13 to 16 degrees C), but have some supplemental heating available at 80 degrees F ( 27 degrees C). Full Spectrum lighting that emits UVB should be suspended over the enclosure to promote the synthesis of vitamin D3 ,which is necessary for calcium absorption. It is best however, to allow the tortoises access to unfiltered, natural sunlight, weather permitting. Many breeders house their tortoises outside during the spring and summer, and bring the animals indoors during inclement weather and the fall and winter months. Red-footed tortoises do not hibernate and cannot tolerate extended periods of cold temperatures. A large, shallow water pan should be available at all times.

REPRODUCTION & GROWTH:  Breeding is synchronized with the onset of the rainy season, (from July to September) where a general increase in activity is noted.  Males identify each other eliciting a characteristic head movement, a series of jerks away from and back to mid-position. Another male will make the same head movements.  If he gets no head movement in response, it is the first indication that the other tortoise is a female.  Scientific experimentation and observation has also indicated that the head coloration has to be correct. He will then sniff the cloacal region of the other tortoise.  Copulation usually follows, though sometimes there is a period of biting at the legs. During courtship and copulation the male makes clucking sounds that sound very much like a chicken.  There is a set pattern in pitches of the clucking sounds. Rival males will battle, attempting to overturn each other, however neither the males or females will defend a territory.  They are considered nomadic in their movements.  It is interesting to note than in almost every tortoise species where male combat occurs, the males are always larger than the females. This is in comparison to aquatic species, where the males are usually smaller than the females and do not engage in male to male combat. It is thought that species with male combat evolved larger males because larger males have a better chance of winning a bout and mating with a female, thus passing on their larger size to their offspring. Species with smaller males evolved because smaller males are more mobile and can mate with a large number of females, thus passing on their genes.

NESTING:  The female will lay a clutch of 5 to 15 eggs from July to September in excavations or deposited in leaf litter. She might lay several clutches during the nesting season. The eggs have brittle shells and incubation is generally from 105 to 202 days (mean 150), depending on the temperature.  Hatchlings are round, flat, 1.5 inches in diameter.  Unlike the yellow-footed tortoises, they do not have tooth like projections on their shells.  Red-footed tortoises, and many other tortoise species, are slow to mature and do not reach sexual maturity for several years. This, coupled with a relatively low clutch size, makes the red-footed tortoise susceptible to over hunting. With over hunting, more sexually mature animals are removed from the population than can be replaced by maturing juveniles, consequently, the overall population begins to decline.  Conservation efforts include the establishment and protection of wildlife reserves and national parks, where red-footed tortoises and other animals are protected from hunting.

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GREEN IGUANA CARE

The green Iguana (Iguana iguana) is one of the most frequently purchased reptiles and one of the most frequent reptiles to visit the  veterinary office.  Often, the pet owner is not given proper information as to the needs of iguanas at the time of acquired.  It may be weeks to months before the devastating effects of improper diet, internal parasites or incorrect housing conditions take their toll, and the pet becomes ill.  This handout is a brief overview of care, but we recommend that you purchase a copy of The General Care and Maintenance of the Green Iguana by Philippe de Vosjoli for more detailed care.

Iguanas are diurnal, arboreal, tropical lizards of Central and South America.  They have been introduced into south Florida, and are currently predominantly bred in captivity.  In the wild, iguanas are virtually herbivorous, eating fibrous jungle leaves, flowers, and fruits.  They rely on fermentation of complex carbohydrates in their colon to produce 30-40% of the energy available from their diet.  The required bacteria are acquired in hatchlings by eating the feces of adult iguanas.  Iguanas facilitate this fermentation process and regulate their body temperature by basking in the sun, seeking temperatures above 85 degrees F (30 degrees C).  Their social rank is reflected in the prominence of their basking sites.  Adult animals may reach a length of 6 feet and weigh as much as 15 pounds, a fact that should be considered when purchasing that cute little green lizard in the pet store!  Adult animals require a large amount of cage space and may be quite dangerous to handle.  Their razor sharp teeth can inflict serious injuries and the tail when lashed can also cause skin lacerations or eye injuries (not to mention the pain that can be inflicted by their sharp claws).

HOUSING

Providing the proper temperature, humidity, and light requirements for an iguana is critical for the animal to survive in captivity.  Iguanas should be housed in large glass, plexiglas, or wooden cages.  A 20-gallon or larger aquarium is a good size to start with, as these reptiles grow at a very rapid rate in their first several months of life.  The cage should be lined with newspaper, artificial grass (astro-turf), or indoor-outdoor carpeting, with ease of cleaning being the most important consideration.  My preferred substrate is newspaper, because it is cheap and easiest to clean (just throw it away).  Do not use gravel, sand, soil, or kitty litter because the iguana may eat pieces of these materials and then develop a potentially fatal intestinal impaction.  These materials are also difficult on the animal’s skin, if they become dirty or are continually damp.  In general, stay away from organic beddings like mulch, walnut shells, coconut, corncob, etc as they are hard to disinfect and can harbor infectious organisms.

A water bowl should be provided with fresh water and changed daily for the animal to drink out of and soak in.  The bathtub and sink is also a good place for a daily swim for your pet.  It is better not to use a sink in which food is prepared, due to the risk of Salmonella contamination (if your pet is harboring this bacterial agent).   Ask your vet about the potential for Salmonella infection in these animals.  Many pets will defecate only when in water, which may make it easier for cleanup.

Humidity in the tank can be provided by lightly misting the area several times a day, adding an air stone driven by an aquarium pump into the water bowl, or with the use of a humidity box.  (See attached sheet on the construction of a humidity box).

A hiding area is critical for the animal’s mental well being.  The humidity box may be used for this, or any cardboard, wood or plastic container that is of sufficient size for the pet to enter and turn around in will suffice.

TEMPERATURE AND LIGHTLING

Iguanas are tropical lizards and should have supplemental heat added to their environment.  We do not approve of “hot rocks” being used for this purpose.  We frequently see serious thermal burns on the underside of baby iguanas caused by the uneven heating of the hot rock that in some instances has lead to death.  There should be a temperature gradient in the cage; meaning one should not attempt to make the environment the same temperature.  Under cage heating can be provided by a heating pad left on twenty-four hours a day and put UNDER the tank so that the animal does not have direct contact with it.  There are several types of specially made reptile heaters of varying sizes, some with thermostatic controls.  In addition, the pet needs a “hot basking spot” provided in the cage by an overhead heat and light source (a ceramic bulb works well).  The temperature in this area needs to reach 90 to 100 degrees F.  This light should be left on only 10-14 hours per day and should be turned off at night.  Putting the light on a timer is helpful.  Nighttime temperatures may drop to 70-75 degrees F.  Allowing your pet to live at “room temperature” all the time with no chance for thermoregulation will lead to serious health problems over time (it may take several years).  An inexpensive digital thermometer with a probe can be purchased at Radio Shack, and can be used to measure many points in the terrarium to ensure a proper heat gradient.

There is ongoing controversy about the usefulness of UV light in the captive iguana’s environment.  We know that certain types of UV light are important in helping Vitamin D production in the animal’s skin, which in turn is essential in facilitating the absorption of calcium into the body.  The question is whether the various light sources that claim to be most like sunlight are really doing the job.  The answer is that there is no substitute for natural sunlight, (none of the light bulbs currently on the market can absolutely reproduce sunlight).  However, since we live in a climate that prevents us from keeping our pets out doors all year (and glass windows block UV light rays out) we recommend using bulbs that provide at least some source of UV rays.  Vitalite and Chromalux bulbs are two that we recommend currently and should be placed so that the pet is no more than two feet away from the light source.  The advantage of Chromalux is that it is also a heat-producing bulb.  Consult with your veterinarian on proper light sources, because some bulbs can be harmful to the pet’s eyes.  UV bulbs need to be replaced every 6 months, because after that they no longer provide a useful spectrum.

We highly recommend during the warm summer months when the temperature is 80 degrees or higher, that you expose your pet to natural sunlight.  We recommend building an outdoor playpen with a shaded area where your pet can spend time on nice days.  Even putting your iguana on a harness and leash and “sunbathing” together with your pet can produce tremendous benefit.

DIET 

This is the single most difficult area to manage in the pet iguana.  The most common disease problem that we see in pet iguanas is calcium and or vitamin D deficiency, which leads to stunted growth, softened and broken bones, muscle tremors, seizures, and death.  Juvenile iguanas have different dietary requirements than adult iguanas, a subject of which is still open to much discussion.  There are now various pelleted, ground, and frozen iguana diets available on the market, many claiming to be “complete”.  It is dangerous to use any of these foods as the total diet because dietary deficiencies are still seen despite the companies glowing claims.  If prepackaged diets are used, they should comprise no more than 75% of the total diet with the remaining 25% fed in the form of plant material (see examples of plant material below).  Vitamin and mineral supplementation may be eliminated altogether because the prepackaged diets already contain these materials.

If you are making up a diet of your own, you may want to follow these guidelines.  (Again, we urge you to consult The General Care and Maintenance of the Green Iguana by Philippe de Vosjoli for additional suggestions).

Juvenile “baby” iguanas (less than a foot in length from nose to vent – exclude the tail) can be fed a diet of 20% plant protein foods along with a variety of leafy vegetables, non-leafy vegetables, and a small amount of fruits.  They should be fed daily.

Medium “adolescent” iguanas (less than a foot in length from nose to vent – exclude the tail) can be fed about 15% protein and the rest as in the juvenile.  These should still be fed daily.

Large adult iguanas (1 – 1 ½ feet in length from nose to vent – exclude the tail or any time growth has stopped) can be fed 10% protein in the diet.  Some adult pets may only eat 2 to 3 times a week.  Concentrate on the leafy veggies and limit high phosphorous foods (those with an asterisk on the calcium chart included in this handout).

All food should be chopped up in small pieces, mixed well, and fed only in amounts that will be eaten within a few hours.  This will ensure that ALL foods are eaten and ALL the supplements are taken in.

Examples of plant protein foods:  Tofu, rabbit, guinea pig, or alfalfa pellets (put into a blender dry, ground into a powder and sprinkled over the food), wheat grass and alfalfa sprouts.  WE NO LONGER RECOMMEND USING ANIMAL PROTEIN SUCH AS DOG FOOD OR TROUT CHOW IN THE GREEN IGUANA DIET.  Although the use of animal protein has caused rapid growth as a youngster, it is now one of the factors suspected of causing kidney disease as the animal ages.

Examples of plant material: Use at least 75% of the plant material as dark green leafy vegetables such as mustard greens, dandelion greens, kale, Swiss chard, endive, romaine lettuce, carrot tops, turnip, and beet greens.  This is to satisfy not only the fiber requirements but also the calcium requirements.  One should use a minimum of three different greens daily.  The excessive use of only one or two items may lead to nutritional disease.  The rest of the plant material can be composed of vegetables such as squash (of any type), green beans, pea pods, tomatoes, broccoli, okra, carrot, cooked sweat potato, and fruits such as papaya, mango, berries, melon and banana.  The more items that are mixed together, the greater the chances that proper nutrition is covered adequately. *Consult the section of this handout on calcium-phosphorous content of selected foods).

SUPPLEMENTS

There are many experts that feel that supplements are not needed in a properly fed iguana.  My feeling is that so few iguanas are properly fed, that supplements are often of some benefit, especially during the juvenile stages of rapid growth.  Below are some basic guidelines.  These guidelines are not true for pets that are on commercially prepared diets (often the supplements are built in).  If you are unsure, consult your veterinarian.  Also in cases of nutritional disease you may be instructed to use different guidelines.

Calcium/Vitamin D tablets: For baby and adolescent iguanas use a chunk the size of their eye every other day.  For adult iguanas use the same amount, 1-2 times a week.  Chewable tablets are accepted more readily.

Calcium/Vitamin D powder: For babies and adolescents use approximately 1/16 tsp. per every 6 inches of body length (excluding the tail) every other day.  For adults, same amount, only 1-2 times a week.

Calcium only supplement: This is probably preferable for daily or frequent use as it is less likely to cause overdose of Vitamin D.  Neocalglucon is a readily available safe source of calcium that comes as a palatable liquid.  Use approximately 0.10cc per each 100-200 grams of body weight daily or every other day in babies and juveniles.  Use the same, 1-2 times a week in adults.  Crushed Tums (calcium carbonate) is another good calcium-only source.

Multivitamin supplement: For babies and adolescents use approximately 1/16 tsp. per every 6 inches of body length (exclude the tail) every other day.  For adults, same amount, only 1-2 times a week.

Remember, the more balanced and varied your pets natural diet is, (especially if at least 75% of the food items are from the list of good calcium sources off the calcium chart), the less dependent your pet will need to be on supplements.  Supplementation of vitamins and minerals is not a substitute for a good diet, and may lead to disease problems.  Provide a warm environment with exposure to natural sunlight, if possible, to further enhance your chances of successful assimilation of nutrients.

CALCIUM AND PHOSPHOROUS CONTENT OF SELECTED FOODS

The following charts show the total amount of calcium and phosphorous in 1-cup portions of selected foods.  One need not look only at the total milligram (mg) amount of calcium, but also the Calcium:Phosphorous ration.  This ratio should be close to 1:0.5 for the best calcium absorption.  The higher the phosphorous amount compared to the calcium, the poorer the absorption of calcium in the body.

GOOD CALCIUM SOURCES

1 cup portion                                                                     Calcium                       Phosphorous                                  Ca:P Ratio

Turnip greens                                                                   106                              24                                                  1:0.2

Chinese Cabbage                                                              74                                26                                                  1:0.4

Mustard Greens                                                                104                              58                                                  1:0.3

Leeks                                                                                60                                36                                                  1:0.6

Watercress                                                                                                           40                                                  20              1:0.5

Chard                                                                                102                              58                                                  1:0.5

Collards (cooked)                                                             148                              19                                                  1:0.1

Kale                                                                                  98                                36                                                  1:0.4

Dandelion Greens                                                            104                              36                                                  1:0.3

Endive                                                                               23                                14                                                  1:0.6

Beet Greens                                                                      164                              58                                                  1:0.4

Dark Green Leaf Lettuce                                                28                                14                                                  1:0.5

Parsley                                                                              78                                24                                                  1:0.3

Spinach                                                                             56                                28                                                  1:0.5

Yellow wax beans                                                            174                              34                                                  1:0.2

Blackberries                                                                     46                                30                                                  1:0.6

Papaya                                                                              72                                16                                                  1:0.2

 

MODERATE CALCIUM SOURCES

Cabbage (inside white leaves)                                         46mg                           34mg                                             1:0.7

Strawberries                                                                     42mg                           56mg                                             1:1.3

Turnips                                                                              36mg                           30mg                                             1:0.8

Okra                                                                                  100mg                         90mg                                             1:0.9

Raspberries                                                                       27mg                           15mg                                             1:0.5

Green Beans                                                                     58mg                           48mg                                             1:0.8

Guavas                                                                              18mg                           23mg                                             1:1.3

Apples                                                                               10mg                           10mg                                             1:1

Pears                                                                                 15mg                           18mg                                             1:1.2

Mango                                                                               21mg                          22mg                                             1:1

Radish                                                                               24mg                           20mg                                             1:0.8

Eggplant                                                                            30mg                           26mg                                             1:0.8

Romaine Lettuce                                                              20mg                           26mg                                             1:1.3

 

POOR CALCIUM SOURCES

Parsnips                                                                             58                                108                                                1:1.9*

Rutabaga                                                                           72                                84                                                  1:1.2

Blueberries                                                                       18                                30                                                  1:1.6

Squash (summer all varieties)                                          26                                46                                                  1:1.8*

Zucchini                                                                            20                                42                                                  1:2.1*

Carrots                                                                              28                                64                                                  1:2.3*

Cantaloupe                                                                        17                                27                                                  1:0.9

Yams                                                                                 18                                66                                                  1:3.6*

Apricots                                                                            15                                21                                                  1:1.4

Plums                                                                                 4                                  14                                                  1:3.5*

Beets                                                                                 18                                26                                                  1:1.4

Cherries (pitted)                                                               10                                13                                                  1:1.3

Cauliflower                                                                       28                                46                                                  1:1.6

Grapes                                                                              13                                9                                                    1:0.7

Peaches                                                                             5                                  11                                                  1:2.2*

Cucumber                                                                         14                                18                                                  1:1.3

Pumpkin                                                                            36                                74                                                  1:2.1*

Sweet potato                                                                     64                                124                                                1:1.9*

Lettuce (head, iceberg)                                                   16                                16                                                  1:1.0

Asparagus                                                                         44                                108                                                1:2.5*

Tomato                                                                              16                                58                                                  1:3.6*

Pineapple                                                                          11                                11                                                  1:1.1

Bananas                                                                            7                                  22                                                  1:3.1*

Peas (any kind)                                                                 38                                168                                                1:4.4*

Brussel Sprouts                                                                 56                                88                                                  1:1.6

 

1 cup portion                                                                     Calcium                       Phosphorous                                  Ca:P Ratio

Mushrooms                                                                       4                                  72                                                  1:18*

Corn                                                                                  10                                120                                                1:12*

Alfalfa sprouts                                                                  20                                46                                                  1:2.3*

Beets                                                                                 26                                42                                                  1:1.6

Kidney beans                                                                    100                              504                                                1:5*

Lima beans                                                                       64                                416                                                1:6.5*

Bean sprouts                                                                     14                                56                                                  1:4*

White potato                                                                     16                                104                                                1:6.5*

Green Peppers                                                                  6                                  22                                                  1:3.6*

 

If you are feeding a pet that needs a good calcium source (such as iguanas or other herbivorous lizards), feed at least 75% of the diet selected from the good calcium source table.  Feed only small amounts from the moderate and poor calcium source groups.

If you are instructed to feed your pet a diet that is low in calcium, then concentrate on foods in the poor and moderate calcium sources groups or choose those in the high calcium group that have a low milligram amount of calcium.  If your pet is also on a calorie restricted diet, consult your veterinarian for exact amounts to feed (some of these foods may be high in calories).

Foods marked with an asterisk (*) SHOULD BE AVOIDED IN ANIMALS WITH KIDNEY DISEASE due to their high phosphorous content.

Calcium and phosphorous values were adapted from Bowes and Church’s Food Values of Portions Commonly Used revised by Jean A.T. Pennington, Ph.D., RD  15^th edition.  Published by Harper Perennial 1989.  Pages 94-102 and 190-211.

HUMIDITY BOX FOR REPTILES

A humidity box can be an excellent way to provide the proper moisture required in the environment of a number of reptile and amphibian species.  This is important to help the pet shed its skin normally, and can be accomplished without making the entire cage too moist.  The box can also serve as a hiding place, helping with the mental wellbeing of the pet as well as a soaking area.  The box is simple to construct and maintain, and has proven to be most useful to such species as iguanas, prehensile tailed skinks, snakes (especially ball pythons), and some amphibians such as tree frogs.

To construct a humidity box one needs to purchase:

1. Sphagnum moss – sold in packets in a dry form in most large garden center stores.  It is brown in color and consists of long strands.  Alternatively one may use Vermiculite which is more of a granular product (found also in garden centers), but has the disadvantage that it tends to stick to the pet and subsequently get dragged around the cage.
2. Plastic box with a lid – of the appropriate size for your pet.  The box should be of such a size that the pet can enter the box, turn around and exit through the same opening.  The fit should be fairly snug.  If the box is too large, there may be a tendency for the pet to defecate in the corner.

 

Making the box:

1. Cut a hole in the lid of the box or at one end of the box.  The hole should be large enough for the pet to enter and leave the box easily.  No other holes should be put in the box, or the contents may dry out too quickly.
2. Loosely pack the box with the dry sphagnum moss, and then wet it down with water.  If Vermiculite is being used, fill the box about ½ full and moisten it in the same manner.  Let the moss sit for 10 to 15 minutes to absorb the water, then pick it up in handfuls and squeeze out the excess water as you would a sponge.  Pour off any excess water in the box, and replace the moistened moss and the lid.  Viola!  You have the finished product.
3. Place the box in the cage near a heat source.  No more than half of the box should be over the heat or it will dry too quickly.  If it is not warmed at all, the reptile will not be comfortable in it.  Place the pet in it once, then let it enter and leave the box as it wants.  Many people note that their pets will spend hours in the box at a time and then ignore it for long periods.  Let your pet decide.
4. Check the moisture content and the cleanliness of the box every 1-2 days.  If the animal does not defecate or take food particles in the box, the moss may stay clean for up to 2 weeks.  If there is any of a stale odor, fecal material or any other debris in the box remove the moss and replace with clean moss.  The box should be disinfected periodically by filling it with a mild bleach solution and letting it stand for 30 minutes.  Additional moisture can be added between moss changes by spraying the moss with water.

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CARE OF DESERT TORTOISES

Desert tortoises are known to live as long as 60-80 years.  Growth varies with food availability and other environmental conditions.  In general tortoises grow faster in captivity, therefore it is impossible to determine the exact age of an adult tortoise.

FEEDING

Healthy tortoises have enormous appetites! Growing grass, weeds, dandelions, nopales (Opuntia), and rose and hibiscus flowers are excellent food sources. You may supplement with dark leafy vegetables such as collard greens, escarole, turnip greens, carrot tops, kale, mustard greens, dandelions and greens, endive, beet greens, and Swiss chard.  Spinach and alfalfa contain oxalates which can inhibit calcium absorption and should therefore be avoided or fed in very limited quantities.  Other vegetables such as squashes, zucchini, chopped carrots, etc can also be offered in small amounts.  For baby/juvenile tortoises:  once or twice a week sprinkle the food with calcium carbonate (crushed Tums) or offer a calcium-rich source such as boiled chicken eggshells or cuttlefish bone for them to eat. Occasionally (once a week) sprinkle the food with a suitable vitamin preparation.  As adults, if the diet is well balanced and they have outdoor grazing time, vitamin supplementation should not be necessary.  In general, I suggest allowing tortoises to graze in the yard as much as possible.

Provide a shallow dish of water for drinking and soaking. Most supermarket fruits and vegetables have a lower Ca:P and a low % dry matter (high water content). Desert tortoises in the wild eat a diet with a high Ca:P (greater than 1:1) and a high % dry matter (often greater than 30% dry matter).  Thus consider fruits to be a treat food only.  Too much fruit could lead to shell and bone problems from a low Ca:P, and kidney problems from a diet high in water content (low % of dry matter).

HOUSING

In order to thrive, adult desert tortoises must be kept outdoors in a large area. They should be provided with shelter from the sun and cold, and a place to retire at night. They need plenty of room to exercise and browse. If possible, give them the run of your entire yard. Make sure that the yard is escape-proof and that pools are fenced off. Eliminate any poisonous plants, and do not use chemical pesticides or fertilizers in the area. It is cruel and inhumane to tether a tortoise by the legs or by holes drilled in the shell. Natural sunlight should be given without filtration of a window  (or even screening) at least half of the year. Full spectrum light bulbs also help and should be used when kept indoors.  Tortoises have a relatively high uvb requirement, so a high quality mercury vapor bulb is recommended (www.reptileuv.com).

Directions for HEALTH

It is important that the keeper gets to know the normal behavior of his/her tortoise because behavioral changes are often the first sign of illness. Tortoises are susceptible to respiratory ailments, such as the Upper Respiratory Tract Disease that has decimated the wild population in California and Nevada. Warning signs are a runny or bubbly nose, loss of appetite, and gasping. Respiratory disease can often be cured if treatment is begun immediately. For swollen eyes, wounds or injuries contact a veterinarian immediately. Sick or wounded tortoises must be moved inside away from flies. Worms and other parasites are sometimes a problem in desert tortoises. Symptoms such as loss of weight and lack of energy for no apparent reason are an indication.

As with any pet, annual examination and consultation by a qualified veterinarian is paramount for optimal care and longevity.

HIBERNATION

Usually by late October as the days become cooler, the tortoise will eat less, bask less, and appear sluggish. A suitable hibernation place may have to be provided. Some tortoise owners use a dog house insulated with a thick layer of dry soil, leaves, or shredded newspaper. The entrance should be covered with a tarp to protect it from flood or rain.

Many keepers prefer to “store” their pets in the garage. The tortoise is placed in a stout cardboard box that is deep enough that it cannot climb out, and is covered with insulating layers of newspaper. The box is placed up off the cement floor in an area free from drafts or rats. If the box is placed in your garage, remember not to run automobile engines because of the risk of poisoning from the fumes. A cool closet is also a safe place for hibernation.

Some tortoises will build a burrow, and in some areas may successfully hibernate themselves. However, before allowing this, consider the location of the burrow. If there is a significant risk of flooding from heavy rainfall do not allow your pet to hibernate there.

A hibernating tortoise should be checked periodically. A sleeping tortoise will usually respond if its foot is touched. If the tortoise should waken, encourage it to return to sleep. When the days begin to warm, around March or April, the tortoise will become active in its storage box. At this time, a warm bath should be given, and the tortoise will often take a long steady drink. Within a week or two it should resume its normal activity of eating, exercising and sunbathing.

It is important that a tortoise be plump and in good health before hibernating; otherwise, it may not survive the winter. By the end of the summer, a well fed tortoise will form fat reserves around its shoulders and legs.   A pre-hibernation veterinary exam, fecal testing and blood work should help to make the decision if your tortoise is healthy enough.

DO NOT HIBERNATE A SICK OR INJURED TORTOISE!

If for some reason you do not wish your tortoise to hibernate, it must be brought indoors and kept at a warm temperature (75-85° F) for it to remain active. It will require room for exercising and regular feedings.

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Hibernation for Box Turtles

Most box turtles live in geographic areas that require them to hibernate for three to five months of the year. During this time, food is scarce and outside temperatures are so low that box turtles cannot raise their body temperature high enough to maintain normal activity. Hibernation allows the box turtle to live until better times return in the spring. Hibernation is not a time of cozy sleep, but a dangerous time when bodily functions are barely keeping the box turtle alive. The heart rate slows, digestion stops and the turtle cannot voluntarily move or even open its eyes.  Although hibernation is essential for a normal healthy life, many wild and pet box turtles die during this period.

In the wild, box turtles will begin in early fall to search for a protected place to spend the winter. An ideal site may be in the south face of a hill that is easy to dig into and above water level. Or it may be under the sheltering roots of a large tree which are blanketed with fallen leaves or a deep, abandoned rabbit or gopher burrow. It’s unlikely that your outdoor enclosure has an adequate spot for your turtle to hibernate unless you provide some additional materials. It’s also crucial to assess your box turtle’s health before you allow it to hibernate. There are many questions you need to ask and answer before your box turtle can safely hibernate. The first is should you even hibernate the turtle? If it is healthy, then yes. Hibernation helps turtles maintain normal thyroid activity, synchronize their reproduction cycles, and complete their normal life expectancies.  These questions should be addressed to an exotics veterinarian along with a medical exam, stool check and in some cases other diagnostics prior to the hibernation period.

Hatchling box turtles that were born just a few months earlier are especially at risk. Many do not survive their first winter. Weak or thin box turtles often don’t have the necessary fat reserves to survive a long winter. Even the healthiest turtle may come out of hibernation too soon and be caught above ground by a spring snowstorm and perish. Many wild box turtles are eaten by foraging animals as they sleep, or freeze to death because they didn’t find satisfactory winter lodgings. You must be aware of all these things. Therefore only hibernate healthy, adult box turtles that have gained weight during the summer. Do not hibernate young, sick or underweight box turtles. Turtles that have worms or have respiratory illness will only get worse in hibernation.

Depending on where you live in the United States, you may need to do more to prepare your outdoor enclosure for hibernating turtles.

In warm states where it rarely goes below freezing the box turtles usually begin to hibernate in November and come out by mid-March or April.  Make sure they have areas of soft dirt and leaves to dig into that are above the water table and drains well. In October, begin to mound the dirt and add leaves to the turtle’s enclosure. This is also the time they begin to eat less and rest more. They are preparing their bodies for hibernation. Several times in October, place vitamin A (cod liver oil) onto favorite foods and feed it to them. This will insure they don’t become vitamin A deficient. In the last weeks of October don’t feed them a lot of protein products, mostly dark leafy vegetables, carrots and apples. Once they are in the ground place an old carpet piece over them to add a little more insulation. Make sure there is plenty of fresh water in the pen, in case one comes out for a drink.

In the midwestern or other states that have long, cold winters, make more preparations for the turtle’s hibernation. They must be able to dig into the ground deep enough to hibernate below the freeze line. This level changes during the winter so you need to prepare the ground deeply so the turtle can go down as far as it needs to. Wild turtles have been found hibernating at depths of 2 feet. This area should be protected from drying winds and snow drifts. Some people who live in areas that have very cold and long winters build artificial hibernation dens for their turtles. This is a good way to hibernate your box turtle since it allows you to monitor the temperature and health of your box turtles. This method of hibernation is also recommended for box turtles that live in areas where they are not native.

To build your own hibernation den you will need two boxes, one large and the second one small enough to fit inside the large one, but big enough for the box turtle and some leaves. Fill the large box half way with crumpled newspaper. Fill the smaller box with clean leaves and sphagnum moss. Place your box turtle in the small box after it has already begun to hibernate on its own. Close the box but do not seal it. Put the small box into the larger box and pack the sides and top with more crumpled newspaper. Do not seal the box with tape. Remember, the turtle needs to breathe. Store the boxes in an area that is around 50°F. Be sure the temperature doesn’t fluctuate a lot, but is steady, like an unheated basement, attic or crawl space. An unheated garage may get too cold. Check the temperature of the hibernation area for several weeks before leaving the boxes there. The artificial den should not be set directly on the ground. Use a plastic tarp so ground creatures cannot eat their way into the box. Check up on the turtles weekly. Listen to the box for sounds of the turtle moving around; it may need a drink. If it wakes up too often, the temperature may be too warm or it may be sick. Assess its health and decide if you can continue to hibernate it or if you should bring it out of hibernation and “overwinter” it indoors. If you overwinter it, you must bring its core body temperature up slowly over the course of a week and begin to feed it regularly and keep it warm with summer-like temperatures. Overwintered box turtles should not be kept at suboptimum temperatures and allowed to remain sluggish. This causes them to use too much of their energy reserves and they will become weaker.

If you are going to hibernate a box turtle you’ve kept inside all year, be sure to stop feeding it two weeks before you place it in the box. During the two weeks you must also slowly reduce the temperature inside its living quarters by 5 degree increments so its body has a chance to acclimate to hibernation temperature. Once it becomes sedentary you may place it into the hibernation box.

Here are more do’s and don’ts for successful hibernation:

• Do take the time to prepare a proper hibernation place for your outdoor box turtle. Don’t leave it up to chance.
• Do choose an area that does not flood or collect run off water. Your turtles could drown.
• Don’t hibernate sick, light weight or young box turtles. Keep them indoors in a roomy, well heated tank and feed them all winter long.
• Do protect your hibernating box turtles from foraging wild animals like rats, mice or raccoons and from other pets that may break open their hibernation boxes or dens.
• Do check on your hibernating turtles once in awhile. You may find ill turtles above ground or the signs of wild animals foraging for food.
• Don’t let your turtles hibernate in wet or soggy ground.

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What to Expect from Your Bearded Dragon

Bearded dragons are suitable pets for children because these lizards rarely bite, scratch or

whip with their tails. They genuinely respond to gentle handling, and will look you in the eye, eat from your hand, and rest in your lap. A dragon should not be caught or lifted by its tail; its body should be fully support­ed when it is being held or carried.

 Is Your Bearded Dragon a Male or a Female?

It is important to know the gender of your pet in order to watch for and prevent potential problems with egg-laying in the female. A mature female bearded dragon should be examined by an exotic animal veterinarian at least yearly.

In the juvenile stage, there is little difference between male and female bearded dragons. As they approach adult size, the male begins to develop a broader head, and his large black “beard’ becomes apparent in breeding season. Males also have a thicker tail, enlarged femoral pores along their inner thighs, and a wider cloacal opening. Behavioral differences may be observed, but these are not always conclusive for sexing bearded dragons.

Diet

In captivity, both live prey and salads should be offered to provide a balanced diet for your dragon. Because dragons are active during the day, they should be fed in the morning.

•  The dragon’s live prey may consist of appropriately sized crickets, cockroaches, various misc. insects (i.e.- field sweepings from pesticide free fields), superworms (Zophobas), mealworms, wax worms, locusts and pinkie mice. The worm species tend to be higher in fat and lower in other nutrients, and should be fed sparingly.  The prey should be fed balanced diets (commercially available cricket food, etc) including fresh greens for several days before feeding out. Prey are dusted (with ground Tums or other calcium powder) daily for baby bearded dragons. The frequency of dusting diminishes until adulthood, when prey are supplemented about once every 7-10 days.

•  Salads should consist of chopped mixes of a variety of greens such as Carrot tops, dandelion, turnip greens, mustard greens, beet greens, kale, collards, bok choy, Swiss chard, escarole, spinach, and cilantro.

•  Vegetables can comprise up to 20% of the diet and can include squash, zucchini, sweet potato, broccoli, peas, beans, okra and grated carrot. Fruits can make up about 2-5% of the diet and may include papaya, melon, and banana.

•  Treats can consist of edible flower blossoms. Commercial pellets are marketed for bearded dragons, but they haven’t been tested long-term, and may not have enough moisture content.

Feeding Schedule and Content:

•  Baby bearded dragons are fed twice daily and eat mostly small moving prey, such as 2-week-old crick­ets. As a general rule, dragons are fed crickets with a body length no greater than the width of the dragon’s head. However, salads should be intro­duced at this early age so they are accustomed to eating greens and vegetables as they mature. As the dragon grows, the insect prey size increases.   However, the percentage of insects vs. vegetable matter consumed begins to decrease (see below percentage prey vs. vegetables).

•  Juvenile bearded dragons are growing rapidly and need plenty of food offered daily. Hungry juveniles housed together will nip the toes and tail-tips of their cage mates.

•  Adult bearded dragons can be fed daily or every second day and prefer a diet of about 55% salad, 20% vegetables and 25% prey.

Water:

•  Bearded dragons thrive in low humidity. Drinking water should be provided in a shallow bowl or saucer. Dragons will often soak in their water bowl and may defecate in their water. Drinking and soak­ing bowls should be cleaned at least daily.  I prefer to soak the dragon for 15 minutes once to twice a day outside of the normal habitat in a shallow warm water filled cat litter pan.

How to Keep Your Bearded Dragon Healthy, Happy and Safe!

• Quarantine new dragons in a separate area of the house for 3-6 months.

• Dragons housed together should be of similar size, with plenty of space available.

• Monitor body conditions of mul­tiple dragons housed together for signs of stress in subordinate ones.

• Ensure a gradient of tempera­tures in their enclosure, from 70 F to a hot basking spot of around 95 F.

• Expose to unfiltered sunlight or commercial full-spectrum fluorescent bulbs.

• Allow time outdoors when the temperature is above 70⁰F (only in screen enclosure with access to shade and water).

• Consult with your exotic animal veterinarian about supplemen­tation of calcium and vitamin D₃.

Housing for your bearded dragon should:

• be spacious and easy to clean, with smooth sides to prevent rostral abrasions.

• be the size of a 10-gallon tank for a baby dragon; adults need large enclosures of 4 x 2 ft.

• be large enough for climbing, exploration, basking.

• contain thick climbing branches or rocks to support heavy-bod­ied dragons.

• include a large, shallow water tray for soaking.

• have easy access of food and water containers for frequent cleaning.

• include acceptable substrates: my preference is newspaper, paper towels or butcher paper, as it is easy to clean, less likely to be eaten, and more hygienic.  .

• provide a hiding area, such as a cardboard box or plant pot

It is important for bearded dragons to avoid:

• sand, alphalpha pellets, gravel, corn cob, walnut shell, kitty litter and wood shav­ings as substrates

• potentially toxic live plants

• free roam of the house (to pre­vent chilling, trauma, ingestion of foreign materials, and escape)

• shared housing between adults and hatchlings, as adults may eat hatchlings

• shared housing between any two or more dragons of different sizes

• potential for direct contact with heating elements

• over-supplementation of vitamins or minerals

• being fed lightning bugs

Bearded dragons arc native to inland Australia, where they have adapted well to life in a warm, dry environment. Free-ranging bearded dragons are omnivorous consuming a variety of animal and plant items. The most common dragon is the inland bearded dragon, Pogona vitticeps.  These fascinating reptiles are fast becoming the most popular lizard in the pet industry because of their ease of maintenance, placid disposition, friendly person­ality, hardiness, and fierce appear­ance. Bearded dragons maintain a moderate size and enjoy life in captivity as a family pet. Bearded dragons offered for sale arc the result of multi-generational breeding in captivity. Several color and pattern varieties are available. Following purchase, a dragon should he taken to an exotic animal veterinarian for a general health check and a fecal exam for parasites.

Bearded dragons can flourish as long-lived pets when attention is given to certain aspects of husbandry, includ­ing temperature, diet and exposure to ultraviolet-B light. Regular “well dragon” visits with your exotic animal vet­erinarian should be scheduled to promote a long and satis­fying relationship with your pet.

Remember, as with any reptile, you should wash your hands after handling, and clean water bowls and cage furniture in the bathroom (not in a food preparation sink such as the kitchen).  It is always safest to assume all reptiles have Salmonella spp. and treat handling of pets and cages accordingly.

Vital stats:

• Length……………………………… 20-24 inches
• Length at sexual maturity:….. 12-16 inches
• Life span:…………………………. 10 years

When picking out a new pet look for:

• Alert attitude
• Willingness to eat and bask
• Clean vent
• Upright posture
• Absence of swellings in toes or tail
• Well filled out belly 

Most Common Disorders of Bearded Dragons

• Intestinal parasites

• Appetite loss due to:  Improper husbandry, light cycle, too cold temperatures, endoparasites

• Gastroenteritis from bacteria, viruses and parasites

• Hypocalcemia and associated bone/muscle disorders from deficiency of calcium and/or vitamin D₃

• Trauma:  Burns from cage heating devices and bulbs, fractures (due in part to malnutrition), wounds inflicted by other animals

• Dystocia, egg-binding

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Box turtles 

Environment:  It is most beneficial for box turtles to live outside even if for only part of the year.  This outdoor time provides UV exposure, exercise, and psychological well-being.

Cage:   24×36” minimum. Needs hiding areas.   A mixture of peat moss and shredded paper (or compressed paper pellets) is my preferred substrate, as it is less likely to be consumed and less likely to harbor bacteria than other organic material.  It is best to soak box turtles 15 minutes a day, rather than letting them soak in their water bowl free choice.  This can be done in shallow luke-warm water (cleaned daily) in a separate enclosure.  Certain additional requirements must be met for Ornate, Malayan and Chinese Box Turtles, which are listed at the end of this sheet.

Temp/light:      A basking lamp can be used to provide a heat gradient (range) in the cage. In general, day time temperatures should range between 72-88 F. Night time temps should not be any lower than 60 F.  This temperature range is important to maintain, so that the turtle can get into a warmer area or the terrarium, or out of a warmer area as it wants.   Box turtles require a UV light bulb suspended no more than 18” above their head (changed every 6 months) or natural unfiltered sunlight (can’t be filtered by glass or plastic).

Some specifics on various sp. differences in temperature are listed below:

Ornate boxes: between 85-88 F/day, 70-75 F/night
Other U.S. box turtles: 85-88 F/day, 70-75 F/night
Chinese boxes: water 75-85 F, air 85 F

Malayans: water 78-85 F, air 85 F

Diet: Most species of box turtles are omnivores: The main staple is bugs and vegetables.  Bugs can include earthworms, crickets (which have been fed on tropical fish flakes and fresh fruit for at least 24 hours), beetles, freshly molted king mealworms, Zoophoba king worms, Tenebrio mealworms (the tough brown exoskeletons are not digestible), night crawlers (avoid bait shop worms – these are usually raised under rabbit hutches and are filthy with bacteria and protozoa), and slugs and snails (if caught in your garden, feed the snails and slugs for 4 days on dark leafy green vegetables – any that have been exposed to snail poisons will die in that time).  Vegetables should emphasize dark leafy greens including carrot tops, mustard greens, dandelion greens, collards, chard, endive, etc.  To a lesser extent offer carrots, orange squash, green beans, sweet peppers, and flowers including hibiscus, rose petals, geraniums, nasturtiums.  Fruit and dog food should be fed sparingly (<5% diet), and cat food should be avoided. Pinkies and goldfish can be offered 1 -2x per month.  Remember that young turtles eat more animal matter than do adults, so the amount of protein offered should decrease over time until it is no more than 10% of total food volume in an adult animal.  I recommend adding a calcium-only supplement (crushed Tums) every other day sprinkled over the food, and a multivitamin no more than once a week.  Offer food daily to youngsters and every other day to adults.

Routine maintenance: Box turtles will often require a nail and beak trim, especially if they are kept indoors.  This can be done professionally by your veterinarian.

Hibernation:    It is essential for adults (except southern box turtles), but turtles must be in good health prior to hibernating.  It helps them achieve normal life expectancy.  It-helps maintain normal hormonal activity and stimulate and synchronize reproductive cycles.  Often turtles are sluggish by September, and hibernate in October-February. Ask your vet or local turtle/tortoise club for a hibernation protocol and recommendations.

Resources:     The Box Turtle Manual by Philippe de Vosjoli

Common problems:

-Vitamin A deficiency: consider 1 drop of fresh cod liver oil per day as a preventative. If the diet is really well balanced, they probably won’t need it.

-Parasites: have your vet check at least three stool samples microscopically to rule out parasites.

-Abscesses (especially of the ear)

Specific facts for Ornate box turtles: The Ornate box turtles, Terrapene ornata are less hardy than the other American box turtles (T. carolina spp.). Their high death rate is compounded by the fact that adults are less able to adapt to conditions of captivity.  Despite this, it is the adults that are most often captured and sold in the pet trade.

This species requires a hollow log or bark slab under which to hide. The sterile potting soil substrate, into which sand has been added (25% of substrate) should be kept dry and allow for easy digging and drainage.  Ornates help meet their needs for constant temperatures and humidity by hiding under their log much of the day. A light misting on warm days (85-88 F), moderate nighttime temperatures (70-75 F), and a large shallow pan of fresh water should be available at all times.

Unlike the other box turtles, Ornates are primarily insectivorous and they may prefer to feed under water.  You can try offering their insects when they are soaking.  They are often reluctant to feed in captivity, so monitor them carefully. Live foods should be offered regularly; feed in the early mornings and late afternoons when the turtles are active.  Offer food daily to youngsters, every other day to adults.

Specifics on Malayan and Chinese Box Turtles:       For these more aquatic turtles, you will need to invest in a submersible water heater if you cannot get or keep the water consistently hot enough with the substrate and overhead heat sources. Buy a digital thermometer with a probe (Radio shack) to measure water temperature and cage temperature in the different areas of the habitat.

The Malayan, or Amboina, box turtle, Cuora amboinensis, is more aquatic than the Terrapene box turtles. They require a large area of water (at least 50% of total enclosure) which is at least as deep as the height of the turtle. Like the slider and painted turtles, the Malayans’ water must be kept scrupulously clean; a filter system should be used, and feeding them in a separate enclosure is recommended to prevent fouling of the water. (See temperature requirements above in the Heating section.)  Although the Malayan box turtles are considered to be hardy and relatively easy to care for, they are shipped under the typical export conditions and should be checked by a vet soon after purchase. Along with worms and protozoan infections, they may be actively infected with other diseases which are communicable to humans (i.e. Salmonella spp.).

The Chinese box turtles, Cuora flavomarginata, also need a large water area. A large kitty litter pan sunk into the ground is generally an adequate size; be sure the turtle has a way to climb in and out of it. They should be offered the same diet as the American box turtles, but small fish (feeder goldfish) can be offered as well.

While these are hardy turtles which tend to do well in captivity, they must be kept at appropriate temperatures.  Below 70 F is dangerous and can lead to immunosuppression and illness and even death (except during winter cooling, when temperatures normally can drop as low as 65 F).

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CARE OF RABBITS

Rabbits make intelligent , friendly and quiet house pets.  The average life span for a bunny is 7-10 years, with up to 15 years being occasionally reported.  The following information is designed to help you take the best care of your pet and enjoy a happy, healthy life with him or her.

DIET

• Rabbit Pellets – A good quality rabbit pellet may be offered daily but in limited quantities.  The uncontrolled feeding of pelleted diet can lead to obesity, heart and liver disease, chronic soft stools, kidney disease, and bladder stones which result from the high concentrations of carbohydrates, low fiber and high calcium levels in the pellets.  Make sure that you buy pellets high in fiber (18% or more) and that you buy small quantities.  Keep the pellets refrigerated or cool and try to prevent spoilage.  Old rancid pellets can cause a rabbit to stop eating.  A good source of pellets is Oxbow Hay found on the web at www.oxbowhay.com.  They even offer a Timothy based pellets.

• The following chart shows daily amounts to be fed to your bunny.  Do not refill the bowl even if the pellets are all eaten before the next day.  Overfeeding of pellets is the number one health problem that we see.  Keep your rabbit healthy by not overdoing it!  Slight adjustments can be made for very thin rabbits.

• Rabbits up to 8 months of age can have access to pellets free choice, because they are still growing rapidly.***  However, after 8 months of age they should receive the following maintenance diet:

2-4 lb. Of body weight – 1/8 cup daily     8-10 lb. Of body weight – ½ cup daily

5-7 lb. Of body weight – ¼ cup daily       11-15 lb. Of body weight – ¾ cup daily

• Please note that these food amounts are for the maintenance of the non breeding, mature, house rabbit.  If you intend to breed your pet, then we suggest doubling the daily pellet amounts during the breading season.  For does that are nursing babies, the pellets should be increased over a 4-5 day period to free choice until the babies are weaned.  After the breeding period is over, resume feeding at the maintenance levels listed above.  In some situations, your veterinarian may recommend that pellets be totally removed from the diet.  Do not become alarmed because your pet will be able to receive all the nutrients necessary from the hay and fresh foods that you will be instructed to feed.  Rabbits are also very efficient at making their own vitamin and minerals in the form of cecotropes (see night  droppings).  Complete removal of pellets from the diet is commonly the treatment suggested by our hospital for very overweight bunnies that need to lose weight safely, or for rabbits with chronic soft stools.

• Hay – TIMOTHY OR OTHER GRASS HAYS SHOULD BE OFFERED DAILY IN UNLIMITED AMOUNTS.  It is important that hay be available at all times for your pet. Rabbits tend to eat small amounts of food frequently throughout the day and withholding food for long periods of time can lead to intestinal upset.

• We prefer the loose, long strands of hay as opposed to the pressed cubes or chopped hay.  The fiber in the hay is extremely important in promoting normal intestinal motility.  Hay also contains proteins, and other nutrients essential to the good health of your pet.  We no longer recommend the routine use of alfalfa hay, particularly if it is being used along with pellets (which are already high in alfalfa).  It may provide too much calcium and extra carbohydrates (and calories) which may lead to serious health problems and digestive upsets.  If the rabbit is on a no pellet diet, then alfalfa may be used as directed by your veterinarian, but weight loss may be more difficult to achieve.

• Check with your local pet stores for timothy hay and other types of grass hay.  Also check with local feed stores and horse barns, because many of these places will sell you a “flake” of hay off a bale at a nominal cost.  Hay should be stored in cool, dry place with good air circulation (don’t close it tightly in a plastic bag).  Discard wet or damp hay, or any hay that does not have a “fresh” smell.  One efficient way to offer the hay is to use a hayrack on the outside of the cage.  Your pet can pull the hay into the cage through the bars as he or she needs it.  This keeps the hay clean and dry and eliminates much of the waste.

• At certain times of the year and in certain locations, it may be difficult to obtain grass hay.  At these times it is acceptable to use hays mixed with alfalfa, or use strictly alfalfa hay for a short period of time.  The most important thing is to always have hay available to the pet.  Remember, we are restricting the pellets, and the hay is a major source of fiber and nutrients.

• Fresh Foods – These foods should be given daily.  Rabbits in the wild eat a lot of tough, fibrous plants.  Their digestive tract functions best when it has a high level of fiber, which helps to maintain the intestinal motility.  If your pet is not used to getting any fresh foods, you should start out gradually with the leafy veggies listed below and add a new food item from the list every 3-5 days.

• Young bunnies should be introduced to new foods gradually.  However, once your pet is eating fresh foods, try to give it a minimum of three types daily.  We find the addition of these fresh fibrous foods helps (along with the hay) in the prevention of a sluggish digestive tract, accumulation of material in the stomach, chronic diarrhea, and as a bonus, your bunny will love you for it!

• The following are all foods that you can try with your pet.  The minimum amount of fresh food that can be given daily is about 1 heaping cup per five pounds of body weight.  You may certainly give more as long as your pet is eating hay in addition to the greens.  Because fresh vegetables are not as concentrated in nutrients per pound as the dry hay, you should not depend on the greens alone to maintain your pet’s weight.  Rabbits must have hay as well as greens in the diet!

• Here are some examples of food items that you can feed your pet: Carrot tops, beet tops, dandelion greens and flowers (these are excellent, but no pesticides please), kale, collard greens, escarole, romaine lettuce, (don’t give light colored leaf lettuce or iceberg lettuce), endive, Swiss chard, parsley, clover, cabbage, broccoli (don’t forget the leaves), carrot, green peppers, pea pods (the flat edible kind), Brussel sprouts, basil, peppermint leaves, raspberry leaves, raddichio, bok choy and spinach.  Try to feed at least three different types of greens each day.  Feeding just one type of green food alone (especially broccoli, cabbage, Brussel sprouts and spinach) may lead to nutrient imbalances.  The packages of premixed salad greens are usually not sufficient for the bunny’s needs, as they contain a lot of low nutrient lettuces (such as iceberg).  Never use these premixes as more than a third of the daily greens.

• Treat Foods – In a total (of combined foods) amount of 2 heaping tablespoons per 4 lbs. of body weight daily, you can give the following foods: Strawberries, papaya, pineapple, apple, pear, melon, raspberries, blueberries, mango, cactus fruit, persimmon, peach or tomato.  Banana can be “addicting” and fattening and we don’t recommend using it with your pet unless it is only as an occasional treat.  Dried fruits may be used as an alternative to their fresh counterparts listed above, but use half of the amount.

• WE DO NOT RECOMMEND GIVING ANY OF THE FOLLOWING FOODS ROUTINELY BECAUSE OF THEIR POTENTIAL FOR CAUSING DIETARY UPSET AND OBESITY: salty or sugary snacks, nuts, chocolate, breakfast cereals, and other grains (including oatmeal, corn either fresh or dried, or bread).

• Water – This should always be available, and changed daily.  A dirty water container can breed bacteria that can cause disease.  The container can be either a water bottle or a heavy bowl that is weighted or secured to the side of the cage so that it does not tip over.  Do not use medications or vitamins in the water, because your pet may not drink if the taste or color is altered.

• Vitamins – These are not felt to be necessary if the rabbit is getting pellets, hay and fresh foods in the diet.  In fact, the indiscriminate use of vitamins may lead to overdose and serious disease.  Rabbits produce their own vitamins by way of their cecotropes (see night droppings).

• Salt or Mineral Block – Not necessary for the house pet on the described diet.

• Night Droppings (Cecotropes) – It may seem strange to list this as a part of the diet, but these “special droppings” known as cecotropes, are an essential part of your pet’s nutrition.  During certain times of the day, usually about 4-6 hours after eating, you may observe your pet licking the anal area and actually eating some of the droppings in the process.

• Cecotropes (night droppings) are softer, greener, and have a stronger odor than the normal hard, dry, round waste droppings.  They come directly from the cecum, which is a part of the digestive system where fermentation of food takes place.  The cecum is located at the junction of the small and large intestine.  In the cecum, the indigestible portions of the diet are broken down by bacteria, which then produce fatty acids, amino acids (protein), and vitamins and minerals.  Some of these nutrients are absorbed directly through the wall of the cecum, but most of the nutrients are kept inside the bacteria, which are then excreted in the cecotropes.  Your pet knows when these droppings are being produced and will take care of eating them himself.  After eating these “vitamin pellets” your pet will re-digest the material and extract all the necessary nutrients.  This habit may appear distasteful to us, but it is normal and important for your pet.  In fact, in this way, the rabbit can survive in the wild on food that other animals might not be able to thrive on because they were not able to digest and assimilate nutrients from it.  In this way, the rabbit does an excellent job producing its own nutritional supplements.

• Occasionally a rabbit will drop these cecal pellets along with the waste pellets rather than eating them.  They will be softer, brighter green, come in clumps and are misshapen, but formed, and have an odor.  This is not diarrhea and if it only occurs occasionally it is not considered a disease problem.  Some rabbits that are sufficiently overweight can’t reach their anal area to eat the cecotropes and may leave a lot of these special droppings in the cage.  A diet that is low in fiber or high in starches may also lead to the chronic and persistent production of cecotropes that are too soft and liquid to be eaten, and are left in little puddles around the environment mixed with the normal waste stools.

ENVIRONMENT

·      Cage – A metal cage may be used with a wire flooring of 14 gauge wire (1” x ½” square openings).  A solid floored area is necessary to prevent sore hocks and to provide an area for resting.  The size of the cage should be at least 24” x 24” x 18” high for the small and medium sized breeds and 36” x 36” x 24” high for the large breeds.  You can use a towel (unless you have a pet that likes to eat towels), or a piece of carpeting or wood for the solid area.  We have found that the “synthetic fleece” cloth that is sold in fabric stores (in a variety of colors) works very nicely, as it is washable and if the pet chews on it there are no long strands of fabric that can get caught in the digestive tract.  Newspaper can be used under the wire-mesh floor.  Do not use aquariums or solid walled cages because the lack of sufficient air circulation has been directly correlated with an increase in respiratory disease.

If you are going to have your bunny roaming the house all or most of the time, make sure that you eliminate areas that your pet can get wedged in, or escape through.  Also mind electrical cords (which rabbits like to chew), carpeting (which they like to dig up and chew), and any toxic materials such as rodent poisons that your pet could get into.  Get on your hands and knees and “bunny proof” your home.

• Litter Box – Rabbits can be litter box trained relatively easily.  Initially you need to keep your pet in a small area, either in a cage or in a blocked off section of the room and place a litter box in the corner (try to pick the corner that your pet has already used).  Make sure the sides of the box are low enough so your pet can get in and out easily.  It is helpful to put some of the dropping in the box.  Some people have also found it helpful to put some hay in the box to encourage defecation (they usually pass stool while they are eating).  You can reward your pet with one of the treat foods listed previously whenever he or she has used the box successfully.  Do not punish your pet while it is in the litter box.  Do not worry if your pet sits for extended periods in the box.  This should be tolerated as long as he is not soiling himself and the box is cleaned frequently.

• Bedding – Pelleted paper or other organic products make the best bedding.   These products are non toxic and digestible if eaten, easier to clean up than shavings or clay litter, control odor better and are compostable.  Some examples are Cellu-DRI and Yesterday’s News (paper products), Mountain Cat Kitty Litter or Harvest Litter (pelleted wheat grass products), and Gentle Touch (pelleted aspen shavings).

• Temperature – Rabbits should be kept in the COOLEST and least humid area of the house.  Studies have shown that bunnies kept in warm, humid environments with poor air circulation, have a dramatic increase in the incidence of respiratory disease over those that are kept in cool, dry environments with good air circulation.  Damp basements are one of the worst areas to keep your pet.  If your rabbit must be kept in the basement, invest in a dehumidifier and a fan to keep out dampness and improve air circulation.

The optimum temperature range for a bunny is 60-70 degrees F.  When the temperature gets in into the mid 70’s one may see and increase in drooling, and nasal discharge.  If temperatures reach the upper 80’s and above, especially if the humidity is high, the potential for a fatal heat stroke is very real.  On hot days, when the air conditioning is not available, it is helpful to leave a plastic milk jug filled with frozen water in the cage as a portable “air conditioner”.

Please keep fresh, cool water available, as this will also help to keep the body temperature down.  If your pet should actually experience a heat stress reaction, try holding an ice cube on the ear or gently wetting your pet down with cool (not cold) water.  If the heat stoke is severe, veterinary attention will be necessary.

If your bunny is being kept outdoors in either warm or cold weather, make sure that part of the cage is sheltered from the wind and sun.  For the winter it is advisable to use straw bedding in the sheltered area for insulation and make sure that the water bowl is changed daily, as your pet can dehydrate rapidly if the water is frozen for more than a day.

HANDLING 

There are a number of ways to pick up your pet, depending on how calm he is and his size.  The main thing to remember is always support the hindquarters to prevent serious spinal injuries.  Rabbit’s backbones are fragile and can easily fracture if the hind legs are allowed to dangle and the animal gives a strong kick.  Unfortunately, these injuries are usually permanent and frequently result in the euthanasia of the pet, so prevention is critical.  Never pick up a bunny by its sensitive ears, it’s very painful and totally unnecessary!  It is better to grasp the loose skin over the shoulders or scoop up under the chest and then place your other hand under the back legs to lift your bunny from the floor.  Work near the floor when first learning to handle your pet so that if he jumps out of your arm’s he won’t have far to go. It is a good idea when you bring your pet in for an annual exam to ask your veterinarian to demonstrate proper handling techniques.

It may also be useful to put your bunny on its back when trying to trim nails and examine the underside of your pet.  Most rabbits will learn to relax in this position and withstand quite a bit of handling.  Sit on the floor and put the rabbit on its back with its head just over the edge of your knees so that it hangs down a little.  Restrain the body firmly between your thighs, and place one hand over the chest to prevent it from turning over.  Talk softly and stroke its chest and abdomen gently.  It may be necessary to have a second person hold the legs when first learning to trim nails in this position.  However, many pets become so relaxed that one person can do all the grooming by himself or herself.

MEDICAL PROBLEMS

Females – A leading cause of death in female rabbits is a cancer of the uterus called adenocarcinoma.  This is a malignant disease, and unfortunately once diagnosed, it may have spread to other areas of the body.  This cancer is preventable by having your pet spayed between 4 months and 2 years of age.  The spay procedure involves removal of the animals uterus and ovaries and helps to prevent the occurrence of breast cancer later in life.

Males – Some male bunnies, especially the dwarf varieties, may become extremely aggressive when they reach sexual maturity.  There may be excessive biting and spraying of urine outside of the regular litter box area.  The urine may develop a very strong and unpleasant odor due to the presence of male hormones, and these little men may not groom themselves well, developing stained and messy tail areas.  These males may start attacking other rabbits, potentially causing serious bite wounds.  The best solution to these behavioral problems is castration (surgical removal of the testicles).  This procedure is recommended any time after 4 months of age.

Overgrown teeth – overgrown incisors (the front teeth) are usually caused by a congenital defect.  Other causes can be injury or trauma to the teeth, infection in the roots of the incisors, or malalignment or infection in the molars (the back teeth).

Rabbits’ teeth grow continuously throughout their life.  If the incisors or molars are not lined up properly then they do not get worn down, which results in overgrowth.  Overgrown teeth can cause mouth infections, ulceration of the lips and tongue and inability to pick up and eat food.  The most common treatment for these overgrowths is to have the teeth trimmed periodically (every 3-8 weeks).  We do not recommend the use of nail trimmers for this procedure, because it can easily result in the fracture of the incisor deep under the gum, with the potential for subsequent gum infection.  Your veterinarian will use a special instrument to trim the teeth more safely.  If the molars are involved, or if the animal is very skittish, a general anesthetic may be required for the teeth trimming procedure.  A permanent cure for overgrown incisors is the complete removal of the incisors under general anesthesia.  Rabbits are able to eat normally afterwards and teeth trimming will obviously no longer be necessary.  If your pet has teeth problems. Please discuss the options with your veterinarian.

Loss of Appetite – There are a variety of reasons why a bunny will lose his/her appetite.  The most common reason in our experience is a diet low in fiber and high in calories.  This combination can lead to obesity, fatty liver disease, sluggish movement of the intestinal tract, and accumulation of hair and food in the stomach which then makes the rabbit not feel like eating.  When the rabbit doesn’t eat, the intestinal tract stops moving and the problem escalates.  We consider “hairballs” to be a symptom of other problems (usually a poor diet) and usually not a primary disease.  Angora breeds, which have very long hair, may be an exception to this rule, because the length of their hair may make it difficult to pass.

Another common condition that can cause appetite loss is dental disease.  Overgrown molars that have sharp edges (which lacerate the tongue), and an abscesses of any of the tooth roots can cause a pet to cease eating due to pain.

Less common, but very serious conditions that can also lead to appetite loss include uterine infections, abscesses, respiratory tract infections, gastrointestinal infections, middle ear infections, eating toxic materials and bladder and kidney infections.

Loss of appetite is something that should be investigated by your veterinarian within 48 hours even if the pet is acting normally.  Rabbits rapidly develop a deteriorating condition of the liver when they go without food for long periods of time.  If the liver deteriorates excessively, there may be no way to reverse the process.  Early diagnosis and treatment of appetite loss is the best way to save your pet’s life.

Pasturellosis – A large percentage of rabbits harbor a bacteria in their sinuses called Pasturella multocida.  This bacteria doesn’t cause a problem in most bunnies with a healthy immune system.  However, under certain stress situations, such as a poor diet, high environmental temperatures, poor air circulation, overcrowding, moving, etc., this bacteria can reproduce rapidly and cause potentially serious disease.

This bacteria may cause infections of the upper respiratory tract, uterus, skin, kidney, bladder, tear ducts, middle ears or lungs.  Please have your pet examined if you observe any discharges around the eyes, nose or anal areas, or if there is a loss of appetite, depression, diarrhea, head tilt, loss of balance, or labored breathing.  NEVER attempt to use antibiotics without veterinary supervision.  Your pet’s gastrointestinal tract is an extremely delicate organ, dependent on large populations of healthy bacteria to digest the food.  If inappropriate antibiotics are given indiscriminately, death may result because the antibiotics had killed the normal bacteria in the gut which led to an overgrowth of the deadly bacteria.

Diarrhea – True diarrhea is not common in the rabbit.   This is a condition where all stool being passed is in a liquid form.  This is usually a very serious condition and should be seen by your veterinarian immediately.  Some serious gastrointestinal conditions that result in diarrhea can be fatal in less than 24 hours.

What most people refer to as diarrhea, is an intermittent passing of soft liquid or pudding-like stools.  The rabbit will also pass normal formed stools.  The soft stools may be seen more frequently at certain times of the day (many times overnight) and may have a strong odor and accumulate on the rabbit’s fur.  The liquid stools are actually the cecotropes (see night droppings) that are unformed.  There are a variety of reasons for this condition, but by far the most common condition is the lack of sufficient fiber in the diet and obesity.  Eliminating the pellets from the diet and feeding good quality grass hay only for one to three months may clear up the problem.  Consult your veterinarian if your pet has this condition before making any drastic changes to the diet.

A good publication that is well written and of interest to the house rabbit owner is the House Rabbit Journal.  Write to House Rabbit Society, 1615 Encinal Ave., Alameda, Ca. 94501 or call 510-521-4631.  We also recommend the House Rabbit Handbook.   Please visit www.rabbit.org

Above all, enjoy your pet and give him/her your love and affection.  Your pet deserves it, and she/he will repay you with years of enjoyment and the opportunity to see life at a slower, calmer, “bunny pace”.

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CARE OF PRAIRIE DOGS

Prairie dogs are heavy bodied rodents which by some have been referred to as burrowing squirrels. They are native to the grassy plains of western North America ranging as far north as the Dakotas all the way south to northern Mexico. Of the five species of prairie dog (Cynomys spp.) which reside in the United States, the black-tailed prairie dog (Cynomys ludovicianus) is the species most commonly domesticated.

In the wild, prairie dogs reside in colonies. They form extensive burrows where they live. Unlike many rodents which prefer the night life, prairie dogs tend to be active during the day.  They are gray to brown in color, with adult body weights of two to three pounds.

DIET

The natural diet for prairie dogs consists primarily of grasses. In captivity the diet should be comprised of rabbit pellets and unlimited timothy or other grass hay. The rabbit pellets should be rationed at one-fourth to one-third cup per animal daily (otherwise you may head towards obesity).  Alfalfa hay should not be given due to its high calcium to phosphorus ratio, which if used long-term, predisposes the animal to metabolic problems. Dietary supplements may include occasional small amounts of fruits, breads and grains.

Clean, fresh source of water must be available at all times. A typical rodent water bottle equipped with a sipper tube works well. Alternatively, a water bowl may be used, but is more likely to become contaminated with food, bedding and fecal waste. Regardless of the choice, it should be cleaned and thoroughly washed daily.

HANDLING

The proper procedure for lifting a prairie dog is to wrap one hand around its chest and support the hindquarters with your opposite hand.  Care should be taken when working around their head and face, for they may bite when disturbed or agitated. Sharp claws (used for digging) may serve as weapons when threatened. An old bath towel may be used to wrap around the animal to allow better control and further protection.  Unlike most rodents, prairie dogs have very scant loose skin over their neck, so “scruffing” for restraint is difficult. A frequently handled prairie dog may become rather docile and easy to work with.

HOUSING

Prairie dogs can be housed within enclosures made of wire, stainless steel, durable plastic, or glass. The latter two materials must be used with caution since enclosed units greatly reduce ventilation and may contribute to respiratory disease as a result air quality issues and difficult regulation of humidity and temperature.  Minimally the enclosure should have at least one open side for adequate ventilation (be careful using aquariums). Wood should be avoided due to the difficulty in cleaning and susceptibility to destructive gnawing. The design and construction of the enclosure must be escape-proof.  Be careful to prevent  sharp edges and other potential hazards. The size of the enclosure must allow for normal activity. If the sides are at least ten inches high, the top can be left open, assuming other pets are not a threat.

Cage flooring can be wire or solid.  Wire-mesh flooring provides a cleaner environment and easier maintenance but may result in injuries to the feet and hocks.  Over extended periods it may result in foot pad and hock infections from abrasive rubbing on the fecal-contaminated wire. In order to reduce the chances of this happening, provide a solid platform as a resting place in one area of the cage.  Solid floored cages tend to be more esthetically pleasing when appropriate bedding is used.  Deep bedding on a solid floor also provides the best conditions for prairie dogs to burrow, which is essential for their wellbeing.

Bedding materials must be clean, nontoxic, absorbent, relatively dust-free, and easy to replace.  Acceptable choices include wood shavings (aspen pine), shredded/pelleted paper, and other commercial pellets.  Ground corn cob can increase the risk of certain fungal problems. Cedar shavings may lead to respiratory and liver disease in some rodents, so should be avoided.

Prairie dogs are more comfortable and relaxed when housed in a quiet secluded spot.  Be sure to select a location away from direct sunlight and cold damp areas. Prairie dogs do best in a dry, cool environment with adequate ventilation. Drastic environmental changes should be prevented, most importantly high temperatures and high humidity.

Prairie dogs are social creatures, so more than one animal may be safely housed together. Even males and females can coexist in the same enclosure peacefully (watch out for reproduction!)

COMMON DISEASE CONDITIONS

Obesity

Obesity is common in prairie dogs. They will likely become over weight if offered unlimited food and provided with only minimal exercise.  The body confirmation of prairie dogs is naturally a little heavy/stocky.  Once obese, these rodents have a much greater tendency towards heart disease and respiratory problems (both discussed below).  The best way to prevent obesity is to limit access to pelleted food (give only one-forth to one-third cup daily) and provide ample hay and exercise (including burrowing).

Pneumonia

Respiratory disease is also very common in prairie dogs.  Obesity and poorly ventilated cages often play a role in the animal’s susceptibility to respiratory pathogens.  Pneumonia can result from a number of viral and bacterial agents.  Many of these disease causing organisms normally inhabit the respiratory tract of clinically healthy animals.  They serve as opportunistic invaders when the pet’s body defenses are lowered as a result of stress and other illness.  Signs may include difficulty breathing (dyspnea), discharge from the nose and eyes, loss of appetite and lethargy.  Veterinary consultation should be sought immediately for any of these symptoms. A bacterial culture with antibiotic sensitivity of the throat and/or nasal passages may be required to assist the veterinarian in the selection of an appropriate antibiotic. Aggressive antibiotic therapy and supportive care is often necessary to get the condition under control. Unfortunately, even though elimination of the symptoms is possible, eradication of the causative pathogen is unlikely (and relapses can occur).  Correction of the predisposing factors is necessary to reduce the chance of recurrence.

Heart Disease

Heart disease occurs in prairie dogs at an increased incidence versus other rodents.  This condition is often associated with obesity and may appear as respiratory distress.  Signs include lethargy, respiratory difficulty, reluctance to move, sudden collapse, cold extremities, and pale to purple discoloration of the tissues lining the mouth (mucus membranes). If any of these signs are observed, veterinary assistance should be sought immediately. A veterinarian will likely need an echocardiogram or radiographs to assist in the diagnoses.  Although this condition won’t be cured, management and extended good quality of life is possible.  The goals of therapy include correcting underlying risk factors such as obesity, and management of the symptoms.

Pseudotuberculosis

Prairie dogs have been shown to be natural carriers of Yersinia pseudotuberculosis.  This bacteria is spread by fecal contamination.  Affected animals exhibit nonspecific signs such as weight loss, lethargy, loss of appetite, and diarrhea. To make a diagnosis, the veterinarian may be able to culture the organism from blood, feces or tissues.  Sometimes enlargement of the spleen, liver, and abdominal lymph nodes is observed.  Once a diagnosis has been established, treatment with a broad-spectrum antibiotics and supportive care is employed, and can be curative.

Ringworm

Prairie dogs are susceptible to mycotic (fungal) infections such as ringworm.  Microsporum gypseum is the agent usually associated with prairie dog ringworm.  Effected animals exhibit areas of fur loss, increased pigmentation and thickened skin over the chest, abdomen, lower back, tail, and head.  By itself, this condition is not usually very itchy (pruritic). A veterinarian can confirm a diagnosis with skin scrapings and fungal cultures. Treatment consists of antifungal agents topically and systemically (by mouth).

• · Special Thanks to Midwest Exotic Hospital and Dr Bobby Coffins and Drs Wallach & Boever whose published information on this subject was compiled to produce this info sheet.

Prairie Dog Facts

Scientific name…………………………………………………………….. Cynomys Iudovicianus

Life span…………………………………………………………………….. 5 – 10 years

Environmental Temperature………………………………………….. 68~ 72 degrees F

Relative Humidity……………………………………………………….. 30 – 70 %

Sexual Maturity…………………………………………………………… 2 – 3 years

Breeding Season…………………………………………………………… January – March

Estrous cycle………………………………………………………………. 2 – 3 weeks

Gestation……………………………………………………………………. 30 – 35 days

Weaning Age……………………………………………………………….. 6 – 7 weeks

 

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